How to Build a Compost Pile

By now we all know that waste is a huge problem for our ecosystem. Specifically, when food waste is thrown into landfills and decomposes, it creates methane gas that exacerbates the effects of climate change. Composting is something we can do to keep food scraps and plant materials out of landfills and lessen our carbon footprint. 

So, you want to start a compost pile and you’re finalllllly ready to get started. Calculate carbon to ­nitrogen ratios? Debate every day what to add and what not to add? No, thanks.

 

There are complicated chemical and mechanical processes involved and I’ll admit I’m a nerd dedicated gardener to have actually calculated carbon to nitrogen numbers. Then I realized I have a life to live, Becky. It’s easy to start, it’s easier to start in the fall, and it’s more forgiving than you think. 

 

The bonus: You don’t have to pay the city to cart off your grass clippings. You can stop wondering what to do with your leaves. And you can drastically reduce your garbage.

This is easy, simple, and free, so stick with me…


How do you start?

First, clear space three feet long by three feet wide. If you are particularly tidy, you can fence it in with an actual fence, pickets, logs, or whatever else you have on hand. No railroad ties due to toxins (and honestly, ugliness). Or, just start a pile in a corner of your yard.

 

Second, alternate green materials with brown materials in 6” layers each, and a thin 1” layer of your native soil.

Of all the things on this list, you likely have an abundance of grass clippings and leaves…which if you’re paying attention, you’ll see this is PERFECTION.

Layer 6” of grass clippings, then 6” of leaves, then 1” of soil, then repeat.

*October is the perfect time to start because you’re about to have so many leaves!

I recommend leaving your leaves in your garden beds, and clearing those from the lawn for your compost. If you need more “dry” material, many arborists offer discounted or even free wood chips. If you go this route, ask for aged wood chips (at least six months).

Third, water the pile either as you add materials and/or periodically when it’s dry. A good rule of thumb is that a good compost pile should be as moist as a wrung-out sponge. Try to dampen all new materials and water every few weeks during dry seasons (summer and winter). Place your compost pile in part shade to reduce moisture loss.

Last, turn the pile once a month. This adds oxygen and helps micro-organisms break down the materials. Scientists and gardeners debate this one—some say it kills micro-organisms, others think the introduction of oxygen is worth the disturbance. I strike a balance and attempt to turn monthly.

Ta-da! You are done.

The more aggressively you manage your pile, the quicker you’ll have compost. If you water regularly, carefully measure materials, and turn the pile weekly, you can expect finished compost in a few months. I usually let my piles age five to six months because I like to throw everything I have in rather than worry about the details.

As soon as you finish one pile, start another, so you’ll always have one ready to use and one resting.

What type of kitchen scraps can I add?

  • All vegetable peelings and scraps

  • Egg shells

  • All fruit pits and peels

  • Bread

  • Grains in limited quantities

  • Spoiled vegetable leftovers with minimal dairy

  • Tea leaves

  • Coffee grinds



The deal on kitchen waste and animals

Here is how I handle the kitchen waste vs animals situation: I make a divot or funnel hole on the edge of my compost pile—about 18” deep and 12” wide. I throw the kitchen waste at the bottom of the “hole,” then throw a thin layer of materials over it. Once the kitchen waste is level with the top, I turn the entire pile and mix it together, and make another hole. I try to keep the pile as close to 3’ by 3’ as possible.

I know our wildlife friends love a compost pile, which is usually fine. Opossums help control tick populations, raccoons will eat small rodents and wasp larvae, and skunks for other small pests from getting out of hand.

If you’re in a neighborhood and you want to ensure you don’t attract wildlife, I would invest in a worm composting bin or a tumbler.


What shouldn’t I add?

I would not include dairy or meat.  

How much should I add to my plants?

This all depends on your soil type and plant species. If you’re planting native plants, you can plant in native soil. The challenge is that many of our soils were lost or compacted during construction.

One standard rule of thumb is to throw about 2” around the drip line of your plants in existing beds.

I mix compost with perlite for potting soil and seed-starting mix. It’s perfect for top dressing vegetable gardens or in container gardens. With this mix, you can finally say goodbye to dragging those leaking bags of compost/topsoil home.

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Caterpillars, Leaf Damage, and Managing A No-Spray Garden